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Skyynet CosyCall™ - Building


On this page the production of CosyCall™ is described. Please read the construction and operating instructions completely before you start with the project.

Components & Tools

The following components are required for the CosyCall™:

The following tools are also required

Step 1

We start processing the GSM module. There are two relays on it. Unfortunately, one relay has to be removed so the module fits into the housing later. Here you can see the unprocessed GSM module.

Step 2

Remove the outer relay with the desoldering iron. Alternatively, you can also work with desoldering braid. Make sure that the contacts on the board are not damaged when the relay is pulled out, as some of them are still needed.

Step 3

Two 60 x 25 mm panes are sawn from a 2 mm thick acrylic glass pane. Of course, any other material can be used, but acrylic glass simply fits beautifully into the transparent housing. The two panes must fit transversely into the case. They form a support for the circuit board.

Step 4

In order for the board to later fit into the case, the corners on the side facing away from the relay must be sawn and filed away. Take care not to damage any contacts or conductor tracks. The board must fit into the case so that the antenna connection (in the photo below on the back side of the board) lies directly against the case wall and the side of the board with the filed corners is as close as possible to the case wall.

Step 5

A hole is drilled in the housing on one of the narrow sides. This is located in the middle, but a little closer to the bottom of the housing. The nut of the microphone socket can be used for marking. The hole should be placed so that the nut can still be rotated later.

Step 6

A hole is drilled at the marked point and a milling drill is used to expand it so the microphone socket fits into it.

Step 7

A hole is now also marked for the connection of the antenna. For this purpose, the two acrylic glass panes are inserted into the housing and the board is placed on it so the antenna socket rests against the case wall. The center of the antenna socket is now marked.

Step 8

At the marked point, a hole is drilled and expanded with a milling drill so that the pluggable antenna fits into it and the union nut can still be tightened. The next photo shows how it should look like.

Step 9

This is what the case looks like when both holes are in the right place.

Step 10

Now two pins are connected. The black cable in the lower right corner of the photo connects the remaining relay to a contact where the other relay was previously desoldered. The reason for this action is that the first relay switches by default later by telephone call. As this is now desoldered, the second one switches through the connection.

Step 11

Now the power connector socket (to the right of the green connector sockets) is desoldered. Then two red cables are cut off and stripped at one end. The two stripped ends are now twisted and soldered into the upper hole where the power connector was previously plugged in. This is a bit difficult because the PCB hole is very large. But it works with a lot of solder. A red cable is now soldered to the PCB point marked X4. Right next to it a black cable is soldered in and below the point where both red cables come out of the big hole, a brown cable is soldered into the big hole.

Step 12

Now two >inlay sheets are printed, cut and the two white dots on one sheet and the white rectangle on the other are cut out with a cutter knife. The inlay sheet with the oblique corners is now placed in the housing. The printed side faces the bottom of the case and the two small holes cut out are on the opposite side of the antenna socket hole.

Step 13

Now the two acrylic glass panes can be inserted into the case. Place the right pane on the photo as far to the right as possible and the left pane at position 4 from the left. Now the left hole cut out on the label sheet must be on the left side of the left acrylic glass pane and the right side on the right side of the right acrylic glass pane. The board now fits straight onto the two acrylic glass plates. The acrylic glass panes can now be fixed with a few drops of superglue.

Step 14

To be able to see the reception and the status of CosyCallâ„¢ from outside later on, two LEDs have to be replaced by ones with longer pins. For this purpose, the two outer green LEDs are desoldered. Both are marked green on the board. The four cables are now twisted and laid as shown in the photo. The microphone socket will be soldered here later. But first we put a red LED into the now free board holes on the board side, where there are three LEDs right next to it and a green LED on the other side. Make sure the polarity is correct. You can usually see this well when you look into the LEDs and look at the two metal bars inside. The LEDs are not yet soldered in, but the board is turned around and inserted into the housing with the LEDs facing down. Now align the board so that the antenna socket is directly behind the hole in the housing. Both LEDs should now lie approximately on the cut-out holes of the label sheet. The LEDs can now be moved so that they are directly behind these holes. Now fix and solder one LED at a time.

Step 15

Now it's time for the microphone socket. First, the twisted cables, which come up between the board and housing on the side of the board where the antenna socket is located, are routed over the acrylic glass pane and then downwards again. Then the microphone socket's fastening nut is plugged over the cables and these are then led out of the microphone socket hole to the outside. The cables are then shortened so that the microphone jack can still be soldered on, but they are not too long.

Step 16

The cables are now soldered like this:
Pin 2 - brown (-)
Pin 3 - black (out)
Pin 4 - red (+)

Step 17

Now the socket is plugged into the case and tightened with the (hopefully not forgotten) nut. The nut can now be fixed to the case with a few drops of superglue. Then both acrylic glass panes are coated with superglue on top and the board is placed on top. Make sure that the microphone socket on the board is directly behind the corresponding hole in the housing.

Step 18

The case is now finished and the connection cable to the car heater has to be built. To do this, split the Webasto extension cable in the middle and pull off both black hose parts. One of them is shortened as shown in the photo and all eight cables are pulled through this one piece of hose. That's a bit tricky, but it works. The cable now looks like in the photo.

Step 19

The cable ends are now shortened to a uniform length and both wires of one colour are twisted and soldered together. Then slide the silver connector housing onto the cable and solder the colours on as follows:
Pin 1 - purple (unused)
Pin 2 - brown (-)
Pin 3 - black (out)
Pin 4 - red (+)
Then slide the silver connector housing onto the connector and fix it with the corresponding screw.

Step 20

For function control and configuration of the CosyCall™ a functioning SIM card has to be inserted, where the PIN query is deactivated, the antenna is connected to the antenna socket and pin 2 is connected to ground and pin 4 to +12V. Now the green standby LED starts to light up permanently. CosyCall™ is now trying to log into the mobile network. As soon as this is successful, the standby LED starts flashing approximately every two seconds. The configuration is described in detail in the >operating instructions starting on page 7 and should now be carried out. After the CosyCall™ has been configured, it can be activated via call. The relay on the board then clicks and the red active LED lights up. If everything works, the CosyCall™ can be connected according to the operating instructions.


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